"The second largest"
“As its massive head glides past, the rest of its body remains unseen, stretching the anticipation into what feels like an eternity. I hold my breath, waiting for the grand finale, the sweep of its mighty fluke.”
MIGRATION
The biting cold air gently tickles my nose and forehead—the only parts of my body exposed to it.
The rest of me is wrapped in a double layer of blankets, resembling a cocooned butterfly ready to emerge. It’s nearly 8 a.m., yet the world outside remains shrouded in darkness, and the house is steeped in silence. I am comfortably lost in the arms of Morpheus, with absolutely no desire to leave my bed.
Until a few weeks ago, I awoke at sunrise to the (annoying) calls of tropical birds. I would gear up and cycle to work, ready to dive into the breathtaking coral gardens of Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. Life was a blissful routine of flip-flops, Bermudas, and palm trees.
The alarm shatters my peace, forcing me to crawl out of my cocoon. The thermometer mocks me with a chilly 12 degrees inside my bedroom—and a bone-chilling -10 outside.
Not long ago, I was immersed in the warm embrace of 27-degree tropical waters, exploring the wonders of Far North Queensland through snorkeling and diving.
Now, I find myself above the Arctic Circle, doing the same job in waters that hover just above freezing.
Damn, what was I thinking?
IMAGE ABOVE: Arctic nights.
© Federico Facchin – 2023 – Norway
The arctic kingdom
But there is a compelling reason to be here.
Over the past six to seven years, the narrow fjords in front of Skjervøy have served as the captivating stage for one of nature’s most impressive displays.
Skjervøy is a small fishing village where not much happens on a regular basis. However, in recent years, it has become the final destination of the spring-spawning herring migration.
Approximately three million tons of herring (Institute of Marine Research, Norway) seek refuge in these fjords during winter. This spectacular gathering lures an abundance of hungry whales.
The central figures of the season are the orcas, also known as killer whales. Estimates suggest that around a thousand orcas can be spotted in these fjords during this particular season (Norwegian Orca Survey). After winter, some migrate back south as far as Oslo, while others disappear into the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.
GALLERY ABOVE: Killer whales (Orcinus orca).
© Federico Facchin – 2023 – Norway
During this season, various other whales grace the fjords with their presence.
Encounters with humpbacks, whether solitary or in larger groups, are common. Known and admired worldwide for their spectacular breaches, formidable pectoral slams, and breathtaking performances, they are here with a singular focus: feeding. This makes them swift, elusive, and challenging to glimpse, even for a fleeting moment.
You may also come across minke whales, the smallest of all baleen whales. I once had a remarkable encounter with them in Australia, where they are known to interact with boats and snorkelers. Unfortunately, in Norway, they are still hunted for their meat, so they have every reason to steer clear of boats.
For the incredibly fortunate, there is even the possibility of spotting fin whales—the second-largest animals on Earth.
Also hunted. Also elusive.
IMAGE ABOVE: Humpback whale (Megaptera novaeangliae) diving in the Norwegian fjords.
© Federico Facchin – 2023 – Norway
Bait ball
Everyone who has spent enough time at sea knows what a bait ball is.
Across the world’s oceans, baitfish gather in tight schools as a defensive strategy, hoping to confuse predators. Unfortunately for the herring here, they face two formidable threats. The first is the orcas—highly intelligent hunters that slap the bait ball with their flukes, stunning the fish and picking them off one by one. The second is the big whales, capable of devouring an entire bait ball in a single gulp.
The day starts as usual: the ramp is frozen, the boat is frozen, and my fingers are frozen.
All normal. Ready to go!
GALLERY ABOVE: Sharks feeding on a bait ball in the Ningaloo Reef.
© Federico Facchin – 2023 – Western Australia
Feeding
After an hour of sailing in search of a good spot to dive, the mood on the boat is far from ideal. Some travelers underestimate just how cold it can be here.
Even though this isn’t my first winter above the Arctic Circle, there are moments when the cold and darkness test me, making me question some of my questionable life choices.
We continue our search, scanning for signs of life. A flock of birds, for example, is always a good indicator. Birds are expert whale watchers—where they gather, something is happening. As we approach our new avian friends, we quickly get ready, slipping on our masks and fins. The captain gives us the green light, and we ease ourselves into the freezing water from the side of the RIB boat.
It takes a few seconds for our eyes to adjust, but our ears immediately pick up those magical sounds—once heard, they’re impossible to forget.
The orcas are calling to each other, gathering around the bait ball, coordinating their attacks to maximize their chances.
For now, I can’t see them—the water is filled with tiny particles, and herring scales drift everywhere, creating the illusion of underwater snowfall. It feels like being inside a snow globe.
We keep kicking toward the spot where dorsal fins break the surface and birds dive frantically. Slowly, the massive shadow of the bait ball emerges, and behind it, a swarm of black-and-white ghosts trails in pursuit.
A large pod of orcas is feeding right in front of us. We can only stay still, completely caught in awe.
I’ve been in these situations before. These feeding events can last anywhere from 20 minutes to several hours.
GALLERY ABOVE: Orcas feeding on a bait ball.
© Federico Facchin – 2023 – Norway
One gulp
However, today’s spectacle is brief.
The bait ball is on the move, making it difficult to keep up. Falling behind, I decide to capture an image of a lone herring remnant. Orcas are known for their meticulous hunting techniques, sometimes taking only the fillets and discarding the rest. That’s exactly what I’m trying to document when, out of nowhere, something far more exciting emerges.
IMAGE LEFT: What’s left of a herring in the front, the predator in the background.
© Federico Facchin – 2023 – Norway
IMAGE RIGHT: The fin whale emerges from the deep blue, cleaving through the bait ball.
© Federico Facchin – 2023 – Norway
Emerging from the bait ball, a colossal 100-ton, 20-meter-long fin whale surges forward, mouth agape, commanding attention.
Caught off guard, I’m unprepared for this unexpected spectacle. With a single breath, I free-dive a few meters, repositioning myself for a better shot. What was a substantial bait ball just moments ago is now merely a memory—the whale has claimed most of it.
As its massive head glides past, the rest of its body remains unseen, stretching the anticipation into what feels like an eternity. I hold my breath, waiting for the grand finale, the sweep of its mighty fluke.
Just as my lungs begin to ache for air, the tail, as wide as a small plane, finally appears. It moves with effortless grace, gradually descending into the darkness until it vanishes completely.
IMAGE ABOVE: Fin whale (Balaenoptera physalus).
© Federico Facchin – 2023 – Norway
A Tale of Conservation Contrasts
In recent years, humpback whales have been making a big comeback in what is to be considered one of the biggest conservation successes of our time.
The remarkable increase in their numbers reflects the positive impact of dedicated conservation efforts. Beyond mere statistics, humpback whales have become oceanic celebrities, captivating hearts with their breathtaking displays of breaching and playful interactions with boats. The rare joy of encountering these majestic creatures while snorkeling further solidifies their place in the collective imagination.
Their friendly and curious nature, coupled with an abundance of captivating online content, has fostered a profound connection between humpback whales and people worldwide. This deep bond makes the idea of harming or killing a humpback, let alone engaging in commercial activities centered around their meat, seem inconceivable.
The success story in the conservation of humpback whales can be attributed to their unique qualities, turning these oceanic giants into not just a species on the rebound but also ambassadors for marine conservation as a whole.
While all whales play a crucial role in maintaining the balance of the oceans, regrettably, not all exhibit the playful and approachable nature characteristic of humpbacks.
IMAGE ABOVE: Fin whale lunge feeding.
© Federico Facchin – 2023 – Norway
Fin whales hunt
Despite being called “common whales” in Italian (my native language), fin whales are not easy to encounter at all. Even though they are four times larger than humpbacks, they are fast, dive for extended periods, rarely raise their flukes or breach out of the water, and never approach boats to play with them. They are so uncommon that the majority of people I meet and speak with have never heard of fin whales and have no idea what they are or what they look like.
The contentious practice of hunting fin whales in the north of Europe has stirred international debates and raised concerns about the impact on these magnificent marine creatures. Despite the 1986 global moratorium on commercial whaling set by the International Whaling Commission (IWC), Iceland and Norway have persisted in their pursuit of whales, illuminating the complexities of balancing cultural traditions, economic interests, and conservation efforts.
In Iceland, commercial whaling of fin whales resumed in 2006, with the government arguing for sustainable practices and strict quotas. However, data from the Marine and Freshwater Research Institute of Iceland reveals fluctuating numbers, peaking at 155 in 2009 and dropping to 6 in 2020. The export of whale meat, primarily to Japan, has drawn criticism, fueling the ongoing international debate on the ethics of whaling.
Norway, a persistent outlier in defiance of the global ban on commercial whaling, sets its annual self-allocated quota. Recent data indicates an increase in the catch of minke whales, reaching 481 in 2019. The inclusion of fin whales in its hunting practices heightens concerns about the sustainability of these actions, with critics arguing that it poses a threat to the already vulnerable fin whale population.
The clash between cultural practices and conservation priorities becomes evident when considering the international outcry against these whaling practices. The need for a reevaluation of these hunts is underscored not only by the ecological implications but also by the changing global attitudes toward the protection of marine life. As discussions about the future of our oceans persist, the hunting of fin whales remains a focal point, emphasizing the urgency of finding a harmonious balance between respecting cultural traditions and safeguarding endangered species.
Federico Facchin
26/11/24
Skjervøy, Norway
IMAGE ABOVE: Minke whale in the Great Barrier Reef.
© Federico Facchin – 2023 – Queensland (Australia)
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